PHILADELPHIA -- Recreating historical sites with the look and the feel of something old, established and important is a difficult task. Keeping existing historic places alive is even harder. But in pockets of central Philadelphia, there are havens that make it easy to forget that we are nation still at war, that our modern economy is in shambles and that technology rules every waking moment.
Such a place is McGillin's Olde Ale House in an unassuming one-block alley near Philadelphia City Hall and the site of the nation's first department store. It's so olde in fact, that the official name appears as "old" and "olde" with careless abandon. But who needs consistent branding when 149 years of consistency in great beer and service are in play? The tavern has been on Drury Street since 1860, is the oldest continuously run pub in Philadelphia and frequented by local politicians, sports figures and stars and literary figures such as W.C. Fields, Tennessee Williams, Vincent Price, Robin Williams and Will Ferrell.
More importantly, however, is that the beer is good, the staff gives a damn and the company of strangers is almost as good as drinking with friends.
Legendary Philadelphia and nationally known beer writer Don Russell introduced me to McGillin's over a pint of locally made Sly Fox stout, an entree into the Philadelphia beer world.
Don, better known to readers of the Philadelphia Daily News, his books and Web site as Joe Sixpack, says McGillin's was known in its early years for offering free lunches to get patrons in the door and spend their money on beer. Today, the prices on the hearty fare are still low and the beer is reasonably priced, especially considering its location in the heart of the tourist area and surrounded by top-dollar hotels. Imagine a $15 tab for four beers (I bought one for a stranger/new friend Ron on my second visit for sharing his unique local perspective).
Originally known as the Bell in Hand and marked by a wood carving of an extended arm ringing a bell, McGillin's eventually gave in and changed its name to what everybody called it because of the big personality of the original owner "Pa" McGillin. His wife continued running the tavern after Pa's death and kept a list of troublemakers who weren't allowed in the pub including a who's who of Philadelphians and her own father. It stayed in the family until 1958 and has remained in the hands of descendants of the buyers for several generations. Christopher Mullins Jr. is carrying on the tradition and has brought numerous local and national accolades to the ale house.
A Budweiser tap handle is unobtrusive and didn't seem to be as well used as the tap for Yuengling's ubiquitous Pennsylvania lager. All you have to say is "a lager" in Philly and you will get a bottle or a pint of Yuengling, a satisfying and drinkable brew from the oldest American-owned brewery (Anheuser-Busch once held that distinction until it was purchased by Belgium-based InBev.
The rest of the beers on more than 20 taps are all keepers. The Sly Fox stout was brewed to satisfy the demands of several Irish bars that had a beef with a local Guinness distributor and needed a replacement Irish Stout. McGillin's own beers, made for them by the able brewers at Stoudt's are McGillin's Real Ale and McGillin's Lager. The real ale is reminiscent of some of the best homebrewed English Milds I've tasted with a delightful roasted malt character and enough bittering hops to keep it from being sweet. Other local (Pennsylvania, New Jersey and Delaware) favorites include a perky pale ale from Yards, Dogfish Head 60 Minute IPA, Flying Fish brews and Victory, a favorite Pennsylvania brewery for me and widely distributed in Texas. (Note: For those of you in 105-degree temps in Texas this weekend, I highly recommend a six-pack of Victory Prima Pils as part of your survival kit.)
If you go to Philly, make McGillin's your first stop before or after visiting the Liberty Bell (still cracked) and Independece Hall. Later this afternoon I'll be checking out the Beer Garden at Reading Terminal Market and making the rounds tomorrow of downtown brewpubs recommended by Joe Sixpack himself. Stay tuned for Part II of "Will Travel for Beer: Philly."
Prosit!
